Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

This week's challenge: DOGS

Have fun. And take a picture of something to do with Dogs. Cats get all of the press on the internet, let's shove their stupid noses in the kitty litter this week and get some great dog photos.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Leaves and Airplanes challenge

Carolyn Feldman

Brett Mobey

Ember Sebastian

Jason Piro
Nicki Anne
Steve Lofman

Monday, October 17, 2011

Photo Challenge October 17th: Leaves and Airplanes

This week my son came up with our challenge. Leaves and Airplanes. Interpret this however you like. Take some close-ups of colorful leaves...or an airplane, or try to get both in a shot. Good Luck!

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Whatev's

Ember Sebastian

Steve Lofman
Brett Mobey
Nicki Anne

Jason Piro

Monday, October 3, 2011

Everything, and the kitchen sink

This week stay warm indoors and get the best pics that you can of your humble abode. Feel free to do some arranging of furniture to get the perfect shot. Try using a lens or zoom that is wide angle. Technically anything that is under 50mm is a wide lens. Usually a DSLr comes with a kit lens that has an 18-55mm lens. The 18-35mm range on a crop sensor DSLr is wide angle. this will let you get more into the frame when you are cramped for space in a small room.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Monday, September 26, 2011

Reflections

While it may seem easy, taking pictures of reflections can be tricky. The first thing everyone does is run to the nearest body of water and snap pics at sunset. Pretty, but then you end up with the internet, full of the same damn picture. Next most people snap photos in car hubcaps, or the side of a toaster. I urge you to be more creative, and remember that rules are made to be broken, there are some stunning lake/hubcap/toaster images still yet to be taken, its just really difficult to make them different.
Remember that if you are using a point and shoot, the metering system will look at the brightest and biggest part of your scene and choose its settings off of that. So you may end up with a fuzzy photo if it is too dark, or an underexposed photo if the glinting sun causes the camera to crank down the aperture. Be aware of the scene and you'll do fine.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Monday, September 12, 2011

Challenge Week of September 12th

Small World.
You can use Macro or improvise, but te theme is small, tiny, minuscule, micro. Have fun. Sunday is the deadline and we'll post the results that night. BTW, great job on last weeks photo everyone!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

UnNatural Challenge

Sarah Middleton

Nicki Anne

Brett Mobey

Jason Piro
Carolyn Feldman
Steve Lofman

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Challenge Week of September 5th

This Weeks Challenge: The UNnatural World - This week's photo should convey to the viewer the opposite of nature. Man-made, artificial, plastic, synthetic, these words may inspire your photo. This challenge is more about the emotion of the photo than the subject. Do you portray it as beautiful art, or as cold and impersonal?
I'll give extra time this week, you've got until Sunday!

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Time-Stopper

 Sarah Middleton
 Carolyn Feldman
Brett Mobey
Jay Windell
Jason Piro

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Time-Stopper photo challenge week of 8/30

The camera is a very powerful tool. It can freeze something that is too fast for our eyes to see. In doing so it can reveal a hidden worlds that we can only see with its help. We need to know how to do it correctly though. The shutter on most cameras can cycle up to at least 1 1000th of a second which is sufficient to freeze most things in place. This also means that the aperture has to be a bit wider to let in more light in a smaller fraction of time. Lighting can be key in these situations. If you look at a high speed photo of a water balloon popping, it can look beautiful if lit correctly. All of the water droplets turn into tiny reflecting crystals. But is the lighting is poor, the image won't "pop". Look for scenes where bright sunlight can shine onto the object that you are shooting at an angle. So earlier or later in the day is a good bet. Flash can help, but the built in flash in most cameras is too harsh and can blow out details in a scene.
Choose shutter priority on your camera and the camera lets you choose the shutter speed and adjusts everything else for you. On some point and shoots this can be accessed in the menus. This is a rudimentary way to slow things down and there are many techniques that use special flashes and low shutter speeds to accomplish this, but for most people, 1 1000th of a second on shutter priority and some good light can make a great photo

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Photo Challenge 8/22


Ember Sebastian

Jason Piro

Jay Windell

Brett Mobey
Nicki Anne
Carolyn Feldman
 Steve Lofman

Monday, August 22, 2011

Photo Challenge Week of August 22nd


Cats. And not the LOL variety. Get creative and send in the pics to the e-mail address on our Facebook group. We'll post the photos in the group throughout the week and on Friday we will post the hi-res versions here. Have fun!








1. Submissions should pertain to the theme of the week.

2. One submission per week per member.

3. Photo must be taken the week it is submitted.

4. Submitted photos must be larger than 1000 pixels in either width or height.

5. No butts.

Prime Target


A Prime lens is a lens with one focal length. they come in all different sizes but a 'normal' prime is 50mm, or 35mm on most consumer level DSLRs which have cropped sensors. Prime lenses are usually cheaper, sharper and let in tons more light with f-stops in the 1.8 range. They also have less junk in the lens to get in the way. A kit lens that comes with a camera, like an 18-55mm is filled with lens elements and everything moves in and out. A Prime just rotates internally to focus. Less junk=better pics usually.

What the F is an F-stop!?


Lets talk about Apertures. all cameras have them. They are the hole that lets light hit the sensor. That aperture is either fixed, like on a cheap throwaway camera, or adjustable, like on all DSLRs and most point and shoots. By accessing your menu you can usually find an f-stop control. The amount of light hitting the sensor is important, but how long it hits the sensor is important as well. the shutter speed determines this. It is a delicate dance between the two that makes great photos.
The other thing that the aperture or F-stop is that it helps determine how much of a scene is in focus. You have probably seen cool pictures where the background is out of focus and creamy while the subject in the foreground is sharp as a tack. That is depth of field. The lower the number that your f-stop reads means there is less in focus in a scene, and you get that blurry background or foreground. The higher the f-stop say F 5.6 and above on a fixed lens, the more that is in focus. Once you get into zoom lenses the calculations get pretty nuts because zoom lenses can narrow depth of field as well. The blurred backgrounds created by low f-stop numbers are really cool and arty, but you do lose some sharpness in the photo. a good compromise is to take the lens either two up from the lowest number, or two down from the highest f-stop and those will be the best bet to get the sharpest picture. an easy way to do this on many cameras is the 'A' mode, meaning aperture priority. Then you chose the f-stop you want and the camera chooses everything else, like shutter speed.
When I get arty and nuts, like with my wheat picture, I want blurred backgrounds so I'll take a bit of softness. Likewise when I am shooting indoors or in poor light I crank the F-stop to the lowest number to let all of the light in that I can. My 35mm F-1.8 Nikkor DX lens is great for this. 1.8 lets in a ton of light. But of course my focus is very thin, like one of my cats eyes will be in focus and the other won't. so play around with it and find what works for you. It is fun!